Stone Fireplace Surrounds and Mantels Are the Best Option
Fireplace is such a part in your house which gets the most attention by you and the people who visit your house. It is because at get together dinners and random socializing you prefer to sit in the room where there is a fireplace. It is extremely important to decorate or build your fireplace in such a way that looks attractive and elegant at the same time.
Fireplace mantels are built and are available in different materials such as stones and marbles and wood. Now a day’s stone and marble mantel are in fashion and they give a decent and attractive look to the surrounding. Stone mantels are cost effective as they are extremely durable and safe and they do not get damaged easily.
Stone mantels are usually built of limestone, granite and concrete. The best from among them are the ones which are made of limestone because they look very attractive as they have patterns of limestone effects in them and they are available in different colors. You can make your mantels out of concrete but they are usually in brown or gray color and this will give a dull effect to the room. You need to keep fancy and elegant mantel so as to improve the look of the room.
You can get these mantels built according to your choice and this is a good option because you will design it yourself and there will be nothing extra in it which will be outside your choice. This tends to be a bit expensive than pre built ones but having your own custom built mantel will be your own master piece.
You can choose from different colors of stone to build your mantel which will be in contrast with the interior decoration and color of the room. You should take some time while making your decision but once you choose then you should stick to it because you will not change mantels from time to time.
If you are low on budget then you can buy stones and get fixed on the mantels which will cost low than having your custom built mantel. But one thing is for sure that stone mantels are extremely durable and you will have no need to change it from time to time as they can go on for a lifetime without causing any problems.
There are mantels which are made out of marble; they are more expensive than the stones which are usually limestone and granite. Marble mantels look very classy and they too easily blend with the environment giving a rich look to the place.
You can find huge variety of designs and colors to choose from for your fireplace in local fireplace stores in your city or you can find thousands of varieties on the internet. You should definitely search for designs on the internet as you can get overview of different styles and designs and then it will get easy for you to decide on the best one for you.
Find more about limestone door surrounds and fireplace stone surrounds at Pietradelmar-CA.Com.
Cracked or Bowed Basement Walls
Basement of any structure plays a very important role in contributing towards the strength and stability of the home. Before and during construction strong emphasis are laid on reinforcing the basement and its walls so that the structure stands for a long period and remains durable. After a certain time period the building requires repair and maintenance in which the section of basement also comes. Basement requires different types of maintenance and repair works from time to time. For this purpose service providers offer a large number of maintenance and repair services. Different services provided include basement waterproofing, foundation contractor, encapsulation of crawl space and foundation repair solutions.
Making the basement waterproof leaves it completely dry, moisture and free of humidity, thus providing a clean fresh environment. For this purpose the end products used for providing a dry basement must be high quality and installed by experienced workers. Other than this, Thermadry floorings leave the basement super dry by channeling any water away from the actual carpeting or wood pannels. This even provides protection from humid soil and foundations. Sump pumps provides the unique feature of drawing water from the basement and prevents it from getting wet.
Foundation stabilization is very important as it addresses the problems related to dampness and humidity which weakens the foundations. Our experts and effective solutions provide an opportunity to strengthen the foundation.
Encapsulation services for the basement provided by a qualified repair team provides a clean environment for living in basement. Because moldy or stinky basements lead to unhygienic living conditions repairing these problems are of high importance.
The soil and the ground on which basement is made plays a very critical role in the structural condition of basement. If the soil settles from time to time or the filling beneath is not satisfactory the basement walls will develop various faults. Cracked and bowed basement walls are a result of such event, in which the soil or the foundation sinks or settles down and this causes the walls to crack or bend. This can cause tremendous damage to the overall structure as the walls start to bend and the weight of the structure gets an uneven weight distribution.
Remedies for bowed and cracked walls are also available after proper examination and analyzing of the basement structure. Thus, a trained service contractor using the proper equipment can counter the entire foundation repair, foundation settling, basement walls, cracked walls, bowed walls and home foundation issues satisfactorily.
Basement Waterproofing, Foundation Repair, Foundation Contractor, Crawl Space Encapsulation, by Indiana Foundation Service offers the best solution for these problems. Indiana Foundation Service offers basement waterproofing to turn your wet basement into a completely dry basement. Visit us online at Basement Waterproofing
The Right Type Of Paving Stone For You
When it comes time to relay your driveway, or to choose new paving for your new home, you will undoubtedly be very excited by the change! The decisions that you will then have to make can be very disconcerting and overwhelming, as there are so many different options to choose from.
The first thing you must do is consider your budget. How much can you afford to spend on paving your driveway? Only once you know this will you be able to approach paving companies and request a quote. If you know your budget, you will be able to speak to the paving contractor and find out what types of paving stones are available in your price range. Now it comes time to actually CHOOSE the material you would like.
First of all, you need to consider how much traffic there is in the area you are paving. By traffic we mean people walking and cars driving. If it is an area where there will be a lot of activity, avoid loose gravel or paving that could become dislodged. If there will be many cars driving and parking on the paved surface, then it is advisable to use asphalt or concrete to pave the area. Asphalt and concrete aren’t always the most attractive of options, so luckily there ARE other types of paving material that you can choose.
Try and get a general idea of the area around the area to be paved. You will want colours and materials that complement the environment around it. If you have a lot of greenery and trees around the area to be paved, then consider using earthy colours or brick.
Another extremely important thing to consider is whether or not you will be paving the area yourself. Doing paving on your own can be relatively simple, but only if you choose the right type of paving stone. Certain bricks and stones are easier to lay down yourself, but there are other types of paving that can be incredibly difficult to lay, and will need to be done by a professional. If you are planning on doing the driveway yourself, you need to ensure that you know exactly how much work will go into doing it, and then you will be able to go from there.
You can also choose pretty patterns for your paving stones. There are many different designs to choose from, and if you go through a reputable paving company, a lot of the hassle will be taken out of the experience for you! Go on their website and look through their portfolio. If you are visiting their shop, ask to see a brochure. Oftentimes it is better to see the results of a paving job in real life, so ask the paving company you are interested in if you can go and see the completed job. Sometimes it is preferable to allow a professional to design and choose the entire paving mission for you. This person will have the ability to pick what type of stones and patterns would look best for your home.
Keith Turner is the owner of http://www.styleandcraftpaving.co.za, a company that specializes in providing quality paving services to consumers in South Africa.
How to Repair Damaged Bricks at Home
Bricks are used for many building works at home. This may include walls, fireplace, floor and decorative features. The damaged bricks may have discoloration, cracks or can be warped. The damage may also result from fixtures on the wall. It can be by drilling, nailing, hanging doors or windows. The repair is usually by removing the damaged brick and replacing it with another without bringing down the abutting structure. The bricks for replacement must be similar in texture and color.
The repair of damaged bricks on external walls should be carried out immediately. This is to prevent seepage of water during the rains or wet season. This can allow moisture to cause efflorescence on painted internal surfaces. The tools for the repair work may include a masonry hammer, chisel and electric grinder for cutting. This grinder is used for cutting the brick into small pieces while it is still in the wall. While the work is in progress, ensure the abutting surfaces are protected.
The damaged bricks on a wall surface are first marked out. This allows the repair pattern to be formed. The bricks on the lower courses are repaired first then the ones on the upper courses. Sometimes the brick unit can be chiseled and a half of it removed. This is usually done where the part to be repaired is a structural member like an arch, chimney breast or mantel. Therefore the repair will be to a facing built into the half slot formed. This allows the structural member to retain its work of carrying loads without it being damaged.
The repair process starts with removing the damaged brick. The grinder is put on and it slices up the brick. Then hacking out the pieces takes place. This is done by chiseling out the cut strips. Once all are raked out, a fresh brick is measured to fit into the empty hole. Mortar is mixed using sieved sand and cement. It is placed on the slot as a brick is laid. The two horizontal and vertical joints respectively are filled out with mortar. key pointing is then done to finish the wall repair with matching mortar.
Andrew Karundu Is A Building Economist Providing Home Based Solutions To Fixing, Repairing, Remodeling, Redesigning Your Homes Using Simple Tried And Tested Methods To Improve Your Lifestyles. This Site Should Provide Adequate Information On Most HOME IMPROVEMENT SOLUTIONS.
DIY – Building Field Stone Columns
My husband and I wanted to add a little curb appeal to our house by taking our plain old front porch posts and adding field stone column bases and beefing up the posts into columns. We wanted a little curb appeal. We got a LOT of curb appeal! And we did it ourselves.
This project initially came to mind because the soil in our San Diego yard is VERY rocky and we have tons of field stone that has been dug up over the years from various projects. We thought, why not use it?! We began by looking for professional stone masons to do the job since we did not know how to. What we found was that the few people we called did not know how either. I am sure there are folks out there who still do this kind of work but we could not find them. I think since most people use cultured stone, stone veneer or concrete these days to simulate real field stone it is just not cost effective any more. That brings us to the second thing we realized; even if we had found someone, after doing the work ourselves and seeing the time it takes, we probably would not have been willing to pay what a professional would need to charge. It would just be too expensive. So if you want the look of real field stone columns (you can tell the difference if they are not) you can do it yourself cheap, but it will take some time and effort. But wow! The look is worth it!
We did some practice projects first which only reinforced the fact that we did not know how to do this. They just did not look right. We realized from looking at other people’s columns that the important thing was that the corner stones needed to be stacked on top of each other to make the column a square. We found a simple diagram on line that showed how to install guide lines at the corners of where you want your columns to be so you can follow these lines and keep your corners straight.
The following instructions are not meant to be exhaustive, but rather to give you a good idea of how the project will go and what it entails. You will need to do more research on the technical details you may need to know before being able to complete this project.
You will first need to determine what diameter you want your columns to be and how high you want them to go. Ours are approximately 18 inches per side and about 3 feet high. You must begin by pouring concrete bases for your columns to rest on for sturdy support. Then if you are building around existing wood posts as we were, you must waterproof the posts. We used roofing tar. After the guide lines are in place, (we used simple string lines taped in place from floor to ceiling. Be sure they are at at true vertical!) the stone work can begin. It is really quite simple but does take attention to detail and time. My husband and I worked as a team and we each had our jobs to do.
Mix up a batch of mortar, you will need enough to set two courses of stone for each column (2 high) and you will want the mortar to be on the thick side. Two courses of stone are all you can really do at a time or the weight of the stone and mortar will place too much pressure on what is below it and cause it to squish out. We did 4 columns and started by just working on 1 until we felt we knew we were doing a good job. After that we worked on the remaining 3 simultaneously, doing 2 courses on each of the three at at time. Between courses the mortar must set for several hours before laying the next course on top. You will quickly become familiar with the mortar and how it feels and behaves as it is setting and will be able to judge when it is time to set the next courses. Also refer to the instructions on the bag.
On the bottom level use a trowel and lay a base of mortar for your first course of stones to set in. An inch or two of mortar is sufficient. Choose your stones (they should be at least softball size or larger) and place them carefully so that the corner stones line up just inside the string and the other stones are nicely spaced and with attractive sides facing out. Then begin to fill in all around them, packing the mortar without moving the stones. Be sure to get all the air pockets out and add enough on top of your first stones to place your second layer. Feel free to use much smaller stones to fill in the interior areas that will not be seen.
While working, do not worry about getting mortar on the outside of your stones. Keep a bucket of clean water and a sponge nearby and as long as you wipe the residue off within a half hour or so you will have no problem. You will find as you work that there is a certain artistry to this work and you can work with the mortar blending and shaping it for quite some time as it dries. In the same way, blending the mortar between the courses is easy and when you are done and all the mortar is set it will be impossible to see where one course of stones ended and another began. The mortar blends perfectly.
After you have set your first 2 layers of stones use your hands (always wearing gloves as you work, the mortar is very caustic to skin) to shape the mortar and push it into place where you want it as it dries. After the mortar has begun to set, work with the water and sponge smoothing the mortar and shaping it and cleaning off the outsides of the stones so they do not have a film on them. In this way you will proceed with all the courses of stone until the columns are as high as you want them to be. When you reach your desired height be sure to have the top be as level as possible and then add capstones of some type to give it a finished look. We used travertine tiles attached by building a jig to hold them in place while the mortar dried since we had to work around an existing post.
For our final step we beefed up the posts by wrapping them in 1 x 6 lumber, and trimmed the tops and bottoms with 2 x 2 lumber. Be sure to prime and paint all wood surfaces to protect against rain and water intrusion.
This is a great Do It Yourself project. It can be time consuming, each section of work may take a couple of hours when you take into account mixing the mortar, laying the stones, doing the finishing work and cleaning your tools, but the results are satisfying and well worth it for this classic look.
Kristine Clemenger writes on a variety of different topics most of which focus on natural health.
Please visit her website at http://wellspringsandiego.com
Saving the Outside of Your Home Or Other Structures With Brick Pointing
Brick pointing is the process of repairing the mortar between the bricks. Bricks are used for many different construction applications. They are used to build homes, sidewalks, retaining walls, decorative walls and commercial buildings to name a few things.
They are held together using mortar, which is placed between them so that the bricks will hold together. Mortar hardens after it dries. In some cases when it is exposed to the elements over time mortar actually becomes brittle and starts to crumble, leaving large spaces between the bricks. This of course leaves them some what less than stable.
When the mortar starts to give out, brick pointing is the only solution, because it only gets worse with time, so if you do not attend to it and repair it the bricks themselves will start to fall apart.
Tools
Brick pointing requires several tools to be used to be carried out effectively. There are several tools of the trade that are used. Trowels, picks, pointers all are hand tools that are used in the process.
Steps
The first step is to scrape away any loose mortar that has began to crumble, as you scrape you will get to a point where you can not scrape away any more mortar. Once you have reached that point, move on to the next area that needs pointing. Continue the process until all the areas have had the loose mortar removed.
You may have to use a hammer and chisel. Tap the chisel gently to loosen the old mortar. A small paint brush will come in handy for brushing it away as well.
After clearing away the old bits, it is time to mix up the new mortar. The consistency should be kind of grainy. Using your pointing tool, fill in the joints where the old mortar was, take care that there is no moisture trapped between the bricks. You can use a hair dryer, to blow air in between them to be certain that the area is dry.
Clean up your tools and you are done.
Brick pointing can easily save a structure from ruin. The process is a quick simple fix that requires a little patience and some elbow grease. Virtually anyone with the right tools can learn this task. The tools are relatively inexpensive as is the mortar mix.
The process of brick pointing is easy enough for you to take into your own hands if you are taking on a small task. If you are trying to repair whole areas of a brick house, you may want to hire a professional.
Cleaning and Repairing Your Chimney Properly
Homeowners that have a fireplace should make chimney cleaning and repair a priority. Chimneys accumulate a significant amount of dust, debris and particles. These substances can build up over time making it very difficult for smoke and soot to escape as it is suppose to. In some cases, a vent can become clogged or blocked resulting in a fire. To prevent this from happening, individuals should take the time to ensure that their chimneys are well maintained. There are a number of methods that can be followed to promote the proper functioning of a chimney.
In general, chimney cleaning and repair should be performed at least once a year. This is best done well in advance of the vent being used. Once homeowners do begin using it they should have it cleaned periodically to avoid build up of materials that could cause a fire. The inspection of a flue should be completed prior to use. Obtaining inspection services from a company that is licensed and qualified in accessing the structure of the vent is necessary.
A thorough inspection will allow the homeowner to know if there are any structural issues that need to be repaired prior to using the chimney. An annual inspection is also very important as it helps to maintain the flue and prevent erosion that can affect future functioning. Taking the time to have a vent cleaned and inspected is worthwhile.
While the inspection of a chimney is an activity that should be performed by licensed professionals, many people choose to clean their own chimneys. By using certain pieces of equipment, many homeowners are able to keep their chimneys free of debris and soot. Those interested in cleaning their chimneys on their own will need to invest in a brush that fits their vent, a flashlight, a cover for the fireplace, a shovel and a broom, a bucket to contain the ashes and protective eyewear.
There are a number of different ways in which individuals can effectively clean their chimneys. The preferred method is cleaning the chimney from the outside by inserting the brush at the top and continually cleaning the flue as the brush is lowered. Many people use rods that are attached to the flue brush in order to have more control and flexibility when cleaning hard to reach places.
For those individuals that are not very skilled at the chimney cleaning and repair process, there is the option of hiring a company that specializes in flue maintenance. This can be the same company that will perform the periodic vent inspection. Individuals seeking the assistance of such a company should check with both the local Better Business Bureau and the state licensing boards to confirm the legitimacy and the reliability of the companies that will be used for chimney cleaning and maintenance.
You can learn more about chimney flue repair, and get much more information, articles and resources about chimney repairs by visiting Chimney Repair
Brick Paver Installation & Edging
Staging of material
Most paver projects will vary depending on access, site conditions, project size and of course, the weather. These situations can have an overall impact on your project from a timing stand point. Careful consideration should be taken to determine the time to start the paver installation. Always try to minimize or avoid any traffic on the prepared areas.
The foreman or project manager should always have the materials (sand / pavers) distributed around the project site for easy and efficient installations. Paver pallets/bundles should be placed in a manner not to interfere with the paver installation. The proper pallet/bundle placement can make the actual project installation easier and quicker by reducing the overall labor of handling the material.
Brick paver patterns
Pavers can be placed in many different patterns depending on their shape. Each paver shape will generally have several different hatch patterns that are provided by the manufacturer.
The laying pattern and shape of the paver is very critical to the performance of the application. Contractors need to take into consideration the traffic weight loads on their paver projects. 90 or 45 degree herringbone patterns are recommended in all street and driveway applications, as these patterns will provide the maximum load support needed and will resist creeping from the turning of tires and starting or braking of vehicular traffic. In most applications worldwide, it has been shown that pavers laid in a herringbone pattern have performed adequately.
Pavers that are 60 mm (2 – 3/8 in) thickness are suitable for pedestrian applications. Pavers that are going to be used in commercial or industrial applications should be 80 mm (3 – 1/8 in) in thickness.
Reference/starting point for brick paver installation
There are a number of conditions that determine the starting point of a paver project.
When starting to install pavers it is best to snap a true straight chalk line on the surface of the bedding sand or pull a true straight string line above the surface of the bedding sand at the finished elevation of the pavers. This will help as a guide for maintaining straight joint lines and will also allow the installer to make adjustments in the alignment of the pavers.
Buildings and concrete curbing are generally not straight and should not be used for establishing straight joint lines. The use of string lines is essential to determine the true straightness of the edge as well. As the paver installation progresses, the string lines will help minimize the need for small trim pieces.
Joint width between pavers should be between 1/16 and 3/16 in (2 and 5 mm ). There are some pavers with spacer bars on their sides. These will maintain a minimum joint width and allow the bedding and jointing sand to enter between each paver. Pavers with spacer bars are generally not laid in snug against each other since a string line will provide consistent joint spacing.
Installation of brick pavers
One of the most widely used methods for the installation of pavers is hand installation of each paver. It is best to install a single row of pavers along one of the true straight lines that you have pulled or above the bedding sand. This will give you a straight and true line off which to work. Once this row is established, you can continue to work outward into the field with the rest of the pavers. Always make sure to periodically check your joint lines to make sure they are true and straight. If not, adjustments to the pavers can be made as you continue installing. Pavers should be installed hand tight. The best method is to place a paver against another one and let it slide down into the bedding sand. Do not kick or tap the pavers into place as this can throw your lines out of true straightness.
When installing pavers on a steep grade, they should be installed at the base of the grade going uphill. This will prevent the pavers from creeping as they are being laid.
On large commercial and industrial applications, hand laying pavers would not be cost effective due to the labor intensity. The best way for installing pavers on large projects is to install them mechanically. The use of a mechanical laying machine can install approximately 6000 – 7000 sq ft a day. There are a couple items a contractor should consider before installing pavers mechanically:
1.) Mechanical installers are only capable of installing pavers in certain patterns.
2.) The contractor must make sure that the manufacturer is capable of manufacturing and bundling pavers in the desired pattern on the pallets for easy mechanical installation.
3.) Contractors may encounter a color blending situation coming off the bundles of pavers. Poor color blending could result in a patchy looking installation. Most manufacturers are consistent with color blending on each bundle of pavers, but it is the contractor’s responsibility to ensure proper blending in the field.
Cutting procedures for brick pavers
Contractors typically have two ways of cutting pavers. Pavers are cut either by 1). A double bladed guillotine or by 2). A gas powered cut off saw or brick saw which is equipped with a diamond blade. The diamond blade cut-off saw or brick saw will provide a much cleaner and more accurate cut. Most brick saws will have a hose attachment on them which will allow the operator to cut the pavers wet. When cutting pavers wet, it will help minimize dust and will prolong the diamond blades life as well. The operator of the brick saw should always cut the pavers away from the surface of the paver field when cutting wet, due to the fact that the pavers will create a slurry that will stain the paver surface. Pavers that are cut should not fit tight, sufficient spacing should be available for jointing sand.
The brick saw operator should always wear the proper protection that is needed for operating a saw, such as eye, ear, respiratory and hand protection ).
Edging types
Edge restraints play a major role in the overall success of an interlocking pavement installation. Edging restraints eliminate lateral movement of the pavers and hold the pavers tightly together. Especially at the outer perimeter of the paver application, without an edging restraint, your project is guaranteed to fail over time.
There are several different edging restraints from which contractors can choose. Typically manufactured edge restraints are the most commonly used by contractors. Manufactured edging restraints can range from, plastic edging, steel and aluminum, timbers or precast concrete and stone. An edging type that is used primarily in commercial and industrial applications is poured-in-place concrete curbs. This edging restraint is typically installed by other contractors.
Edging installation
When installing your edge restraint, it should rest directly on top of the compacted gravel base. The compacted gravel base course should extend a minimum of 6in beyond the perimeter of the pavers. This will provide a proper foundation upon which the edging restraint can sit. Manufactured edging ( i.E. Plastic, steel or aluminum ) should be firmly anchored into the compacted gravel base( check with the manufacturer’s literature for the recommended spacing of the spikes). There are some edging restraints that will extend deeper into the gravel base or beyond the base course ( i.E. Timbers or poured-in-place curbs ). Edging restraints should never be placed directly on top of the bedding sand. This could result in the migration of the bedding sand and eventual lateral movement of the pavers. If there is a possibility of losing bedding sand between the pavers and the edge restraint, then geo textile fabric is recommended. When a gap between the pavers and the edging exceeds 3/8″ (10mm), then the space should be filled with cut pavers. All edging applications should be properly back filled after they are installed to help provide additional stability.
Compaction of brick pavers
After installation, the pavers need to be compacted. The entire area that is to be compacted should be swept clean of any foreign objects and debris that can cause scratching or scuffing on the surface of the pavers.
It is important to have a compactor that can exert between 3000lbs. And 5000 lbs. Of centrifugal compaction force. In addition, it is important that the first compaction takes place before any jointing sand has been applied to the pavers. If jointing sand is applied to the pavers before compaction takes place, this can cause a bridging problem and will not allow the joints to be completely filled with jointing sand. This can also prevent the pavers from being properly set into the bedding sand.
When compacting the pavers, it is recommended that you make at least two passes in different directions across the pavers. This will allow the pavers to be properly set in the bedding sand and will force the bedding sand up into the joints from the bottom of the pavers.
The compaction of the pavers is very critical to the final performance of the pavers. Failure to do proper compaction can result in deformations and pavement failure over time.
Kurt Glave has over 28 years of professional experience in the Landscape / Hardscape Industry. He also started the original Hardscape Expo & Conference Tradeshow and is now a Regional Sales Manager for RCP / http://www.silvercreekstoneworks.com
Sheltering Vehicles From Mother Nature
Constructed from solid state metals that are treated to be weather resistant and withstand the abuse that Mother Nature can dish out, steel fabricated carports are making an exceptional alternative to the garages of homes that often are so filled with a family’s possessions that there is no room for any vehicles. Making the perfect solution to boat and RV storage on a property the manufactured structures provide protection from the elements and allow their owners the peace of mind that their seasonally used modes of transportation are secured when they are not in use.
For some people the addition of a second or third storage unit that houses their recreational toys without having to keep them out of their view is a valuable alternative option to the parking lots of camper storage centers that lockup the rigs behind an iron gate but most likely do not monitor the premises for intruders that break in and make off with artifacts from the sleeping vehicles.
By erecting a high quality construction that is far more cost effective than an actual framed an finished building people that have more cars, trucks, RVs, snowmobiles and ATVs than they do places to keep them can efficiently put up a solidly manufactured carport in a few hours and enclose their beloved weekend toys in a permanent shelter without having to acquire special permits or taking weeks to finish and inspect a conventional garage.
For a fraction of the cost of an expansion building project business and homeowners are able to find the additional storage and protection that they need for their cars whether they are at the office or at home.
At American Steel Carports Inc. (http://americansteelinc.com/) we specialize in selling and building durable storage buildings of all shapes and sizes. For example, in addition to our wide selection of open and partial carports, we also manufacture and sell warehouses, garages, mini storage units, and portable hunting blinds.